VISITING BANDHAVGARH FROM THE UK

APPLYING FOR A VISA | PROCESSING YOU APPLICATION | GETTING TO INDIA | STOPOVER IN DELHI
DELHI TO BANDHAVGARH | THE TRAINS | WHAT TO TAKE ON THE TRAIN
UMARIA TO BANDHAVGARH | WHAT TO WEAR

Applying for a visa

The starting point for your journey to Bandhavgarh starts here at home. To gain entry to India, you must have a valid Visa. This is not negotiable. No visa, no entry – It’s that simple! Please do not finalise your travel arrangements to India before ascertaining the visa requirements from the Indian High Commission, In the UK, this is located in Aldwych, London.

You can apply for a visa in person or by post at the High Commission of India. For your trip you are likely to be seeking a tourist visa or if you are a professional photographer then you’ll need a journalist visa. If it’s the later, you should contact the Indian High Commission well in advance of your travels to discuss your assignment or the objective of your trip. If you simply turn up in person to process your visa application, you will have to write and sign and affidavit stating that you will not be profiting from photography taken while in India.

Visa applications forms can be obtained in a number of ways. They can be collected from the India Place window of the High Commission of India from 8.30 a.m. to 1.00 p.m. and from 2.00 p.m. to 4.00 p.m. Mondays to Fridays, except holidays (see the Indian High Commission website for details). Or you can apply through the post by sending a stamped self-addressed envelope to the Visa Section of the High Commission of India at India House, Aldwych, London, WC2B 4NA. Alternatively you can download the application from the Indian High Commission website using the following link:

Download a Visa Application Form here

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Processing your visa application

Visa applications can be made by post but if you can, it is far better to make the application in person, especially if time is an issue. Queue numbers are issued to visa applicants at the Indian High Commission between 8.30 a.m. and 12.00 noon Mondays to Fridays, except holidays (see the Indian High Commission website for details).

High Commission of India
India House
Aldwych
London WC2B 4NA

When you collect your Queue number (I’m always in the queue for 8:30 and its already 100 or so long!) it will tell you approximately when you should be in the visa hall ready to submit your applications form and supporting documents (see below). When submitted you’ll be told approximately when your documents and visa will be ready for collection. I have always stayed at the hall throughout the process as the times they give you can be very approximate! Please take note of the visa requirements. You will get nowhere if you forget any one of these:

• Original passport valid for at least six months
• Correct visa fee (I always take cash)
• Two Recent passport-size photographs (five photographs in case of Pakistani nationals)
• Supporting documents, where necessary
• Duly completed application form (Pakistani and Bangladeshi nationals need to apply on special application forms)

Read visa application guidelines on the High Commission of India's Website

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Getting there

I’ve always flown to Delhi with British Airways. The timings aren’t always the most convenient but service is always efficient and reliable. It pays to go with an airline with considerable resources as I recently found out.

On our last trip a member of the ground crew damaged a cargo door so the plane could not fly. Given that this was a 747, I thought we would be detained for ages, but as it was BA they had enough resources to secure another 747 for our flight. What could have been a severe interruption threatening our onward train journeys became nothing more than short delay and we were on our way within a couple of hours.

British Airways flights from London Heathrow to Delhi usually cost in the region of £570 to £670. Prices jump up around the holidays of Diwali (1st week of November), Christmas and New Year.

I have heard favourable comments regarding Virgin Airways and the times of their scheduled flights seem to be more practical. Also, Lufthansa fly a non-direct service via Frankfurt. This sounds too good to be true but their Business Class flights cost approximately the same as BA’s Premium Economy flight. Worth enquiring…

Please note that flight times change seasonally. Delhi suffers from severe fog caused by the airborne pollution. As a result flight during December to February arrive and depart Delhi in time to avoid the fog.

Visit British Airways' Website

Visit Virgin Airways' Website

Visit Lufthansa's Website

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Stopping over in Delhi to refresh

The easiest way of reaching Bandhavgarh is by train. The trains are strictly scheduled and the Utkal Express departs Delhi once a day around 12:30pm. Flying with BA means that you arrive between 23:00 and 02:00 so I’ve always taken the opportunity to rest up in a hotel. I hadn’t really given this much thought previously and opted for a really cheap hotel… after all, I was only there for a matter of hours. But the old adage is true, you get what you pay for! Instead of a restful night sleep and feeling refreshed in the morning, I had to listen to a party, barking dogs and coughing neighbours.

Learning from this, I now stay in a beautiful, friendly, and peaceful hotel close enough to the train station to afford me a lie in! The hotel is called The Manor and it’s operated by Aman Resorts. The Manor is located in the plush suburb of Friends Colony and is set in one-and-a-half acres of landscaped gardens. It’s well within the folds of the bustling city and offers a contemporary retreat. The 10-suite hotel provides complimentary transfers to and from the airport (40mins) and to the train station (15mins). The service is super-friendly with the manager, Benny, always trying to make you feel at home. As often as he can, he will be there to greet new guests with his bouncing pet labrador.

Visit The Manor's website

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Delhi to Bandhavgarh

I can highly recommend that you purchase your train tickets in advance from S.D. Enterprises Ltd., based in Wembley. You pay a premium buying them in the UK, but it is well worth avoiding the hassle and the language barrier at the train station. The Utkal Express’ highest sleeper carriage standard is AC 2 Tier. This means there are two bunks in either a 4-berth or a 2-berth compartment.

I will be trying out a new train journey on my next trip. This train goes to Katni (2hrs transfer) rather than Umaria (40mins transfer). The advantage in this other train is its schedule and the fact that it has a 1st class sleeper carriage with locking compartment doors.

Visit S.D. Enterprises' Website

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At the station

There are two stations where you can board the Utkal Express - Delhi Central and H. Nizamudin. I strongly advise you opt for H. Nizamudin. Delhi Central has over 20 platforms and hosts around a million people… or so it seems. H. Nizamudin, on the other hand, has only a few platforms and is considerably quieter.

When you arrive at any station you will invariably be confronted by a number of men in red scarves. These are the station’s porters and they are not afraid of grabbing your bags and offering to carry them for you - so you must assert yourself from the off. This isn’t as bad as it sounds, in fact the porters are very useful as they know which platform the train will leave. Besides, it will only cost INR100 per porter and does make life a little easier when passing through the crowds.

Make sure you agree the price though before they start walking with your luggage. It avoids any unnecessary haggling on the train. If you stay at The Manor, or another hotel, their driver should be able to escort you to the train and converse with the porters.

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On the train

I think the most frustrating thing for many tourists is the lack of description given regarding the length and condition of train journey's and transfers. I hope this will shed some light and lessen the shock somewhat!

Indian trains have been made out to be the stuff of nightmares. There are so many scare stories out there and most of them were probably true in the past. But the trains have improved considerably and can even shame the British rail network. For example, the Utkal Express is about a mile long and carries hundreds even thousands of passengers. But, even though it travels from one corner of India to the other, its punctuality is outstanding! It’s true that they’re pretty unsanitary and uncomfortable but as long as you treat this journey as a ‘means to an end’ it will pass quite easily.

The train journey from Delhi to Umaria is approximately 17 hours. Yes, this sounds a long time and it is. However, there are ways of passing the time comfortably, without losing your mind. Before we board the train we make sure that we have food and water for the trip - normally procured from the hotel, or even brought from the UK. I take magazines, a book, and an MP3 player to help pass the time. However, the best thing to do is sleep. This was proved on our last trip where we slept every few hours and awoke for a few hours. It was our most comfortable train journey yet.

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List of useful things to take on the train:

• Chain & Padlock - Thefts do occur on the trains, especially the sleeper carriages, although I've never witnessed this or heard 1st-hand accounts of theft. It is adviseable though to buy a bike chain and lock with which you can secure your luggage. There are steel hoops below the seats for this purpose. Its better to bring your own chain and lock rather than buy one from the sellers at the train station. The quality of the metal and locks not really up to standard.
• Reading material – Magazines, a good book (how often do you get 17 hours to just sit and read), and puzzle books
• Music player – MP3 is best as the batteries last longer and you have a greater variety of music
• Drinks – ask for unopened bottles of water from the hotel. You should take three each and make sure you drink them. Tea (known as Chai, pron. chy) is served hot and very sweet on the carriage. If you don't like sweet tea then avoid it, because the hot milky water from which it is made has loads of it. There are also soft drinks available to buy, but I find as the carriage is air-conditioned, you need plenty of fluids and 17hrs of fizzy drinks and juices will make you feel very rough.
• Food – the train has a pantry car with staff patrolling the aisles with food and drink. Some of the food is pre-packed and some is hot, prepared on the train. It’s up to you how strong you think your constitution is. I have eaten the food and it’s been fine… quite tasty in fact. However, I have been to India a number of times and have built up some immunity to the new bacteria in the environment. Eat at your own risk! I normally bring munchies from the UK like nuts, dried fruit and flapjacks, but also ask the hotel for fresh fruit and sandwiches.
• Eye-mask – if you fly with BA, or you get a handy little pack containing socks, travel toothbrush and an eye-mask to put on while you sleep. This pack is perfect for the train so don't discard it once your flight is over. Other passengers will put the lights on and off so the mask is very useful and the mini toothbrush is perfect for a quick freshen up.
• Earplugs – Not everyone is fan of using them, but they do come in very handy here. The Indian trains are legendary for carrying the world heavyweights of snoring. It can be quite incredible sometimes.
• Safety pins – In AC 2 Tier, the compartments of the carriage are separated by curtains. These seal with Velcro, which eventually wears out or is torn off. Safety pins let you re-attach the curtains and prevent them being dragged open by people walking up and down the aisle.
• Toiletries – It’s a good idea to keep your toiletries handy as you will probably want to freshen up periodically especially if you are sleeping on and off. I would highly recommend you keep a pack of wet-wipes to clean your hands before eating and after you visited the toilets and remember to pack tissues or a toilet roll because there won’t be any waiting for you!

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Umaria to Bandhavgarh

The transfer from Umaria now takes about 40mins. Its far better than it used to be as the main road has just been resurfaced. You’ll be collected by a 4x4 which should take you to Tala fairly comfortably. I say fairly as only two-thirds of the journey is on smooth tarmac. The rest is on typical Indian tarmac… bumpy, worn out and incredibly pot-holed. It’s not that bad as they drive over them so fast they just blend into a rough road.

The sun should have just come up when you arrive at Umaria, so as tired as you may feel its worth keeping your eyes peeled as you travel to Tala. There’s a good chance of seeing grey langur monkeys, spotted deer, peafowl, jackals and wild boar along the way.

Arriving at Churhat Kothi is always a great relief for me as I can finally de-stress and relax knowing that all the travelling is now over. All I have to concern myself with now is finding and photographing wildlife! Since I have been visiting Bandhavgarh, Lucy a young English women that manages Churhat, has always been there to meet us on arrival. She is a fantastic host and will ensure that your stay is comfortable and relaxing. If you have any issues whatsoever, just chat with Lucy and she will do her utmost to resolve them.

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What to wear

When out game viewing, I suggest dark and/or muted clothing that will not show up too much against the vegetation. Greens, browns and khakis are ideal. A light raincoat is useful as there can be dew on the trees in the early mornings and they can help cut down the wind chill experienced in the back of the jeep.

Tough, outdoor shoes for excursions to Bandhavgarh Fort are essential - there is a steep and rocky climb to the fort gates. For game viewing, its a personal choice. In the heat of the summer, I tend to where sandals or go barefoot. In the winter, its best to take comfy trainers or hiking boots, just to keep you feet warm.

An excursion to the fort in the winter months can be very pleasant. The warm sunshine beams down on you up there and will quickly warm you up from the chilly mornings. The sun can still be strong so take a hat (preferably with a wide brim to keep the sun off your neck), plenty of fluid, and sun block. In the summer, the heat of the mid-day can be extremely fierce. I would suggest going in the morning to avoid the worst of the heat. Take light clothing that you can roll down your arms and legs as you may burn much quicker than expected.

During the winter months from late November to February the nights and early mornings can be very cold with temperatures low enough for a touch of ground frost. This is something many tour operators fail to tell you. If planning safaris during this time (December and January especially) you'll be well advised to bring a warm hat, gloves, fleece and a warm jacket. You will also need long-sleeved tops and long trousers. When standing around the temperature is fine, but when driving along, the wind-chill cutting through an open-top jeep can be really harsh.

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Well, you have come along way from the UK. You are now in one of India's greatest wilderness reserves and home of the majestic, Royal Bengal tiger. To read about what happens next, click here

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